What It Means to Be an Asian American Woman

Written by: Tori Lopez

When I was in high school, most people could tell that I was mixed. Part of me was obviously Hispanic, as hinted my surname, but the other seemed more ambiguous. Like most mixed kids, my identity became a game, with classmates eagerly trying to guess my heritage. That is, until one study hall where an acquaintance asked if I was Asian.

To be honest, it took me by surprise. “How did you know?” I asked.

“Well,” she started, shrugging, “you’re quiet, you follow the rules, and you’re good at school.”

And so, the other half of my heritage was identified merely by a stereotype. I originally brushed this off since comments like these were commonplace at my high school. But as I grew older, I began to ask myself: why is it that my personality was associated with a tired stereotype of an entire group of people?

This is a shared experience amongst many women of color: to have your identity recognized for stereotypes based on your heritage. But for many Asian American women, it can be characteristics like being quiet, submissive, or, God forbid, a bad driver. These depictions are unique to the United States, stretching back to the 19th century.

Picture this: it’s the year 1850 in the state of California. The Gold Rush is an opportunity for the everyman to become richer than he could imagine. Men from all over the globe flocked to California, and thus, it didn’t take long for East Asian gangs to exploit this huge influx in population. Both Chinese and Japanese ladies were forcibly brought to the United States in the late 19th century. Here, they worked as prostitutes, which framed them as compliant, modest, yet sexually available. These stereotypes exist today for Asian American women regardless if they’re Chinese or Japanese.

Sex trafficking was so bad in California that a group known as the Mission Home formed to disrupt it. Pictured here are residents of the home. For more information about the Mission Home, visit here. Source: Los Angeles Times.

But surely there are Asian American women who don’t fit this. I mean, duh, these are stereotypes and there are over 22 million Asians in the U.S. Just look at Ali Wong: she’s fierce, she’s vulgar, and she’s constantly teasing her husband in her standup. She’s nothing like how the centuries-old stereotype depicts her. The thing is, though, is that a stereotype is something that’s forced onto us.

Sociologists Lisa Wade and Myra Ferree use the word gender strategy to define “finding a way of doing gender that works for us as unique individuals who are also shaped by other parts of our identity and the realities of our lives.” In other words, we find a strategy to avoid having tired assumptions pushed onto us. By portraying herself as brash and loud, Wong can evade cliched stereotypes, whether she recognizes it or not.

Regardless of how she depicts herself, being Asian is a part of Wong’s identity. And she uses that to her advantage. For example, she uses things that are unique to being an Asian woman ― such as joking about being bad at parallel parking, and therefore, being a bad driver ― in her stand up. She takes an idea used to degrade Asian women and turns it into a joke. From there, this becomes something that’s a part of her stand up as opposed to her own identity.

Ali Wong in her Netflix stand up special, Hard Knock Wife. Source: Netflix.

And it sucks that it has to be this way! Asian women (and women of color as a whole) shouldn’t have to resort to gender strategies to escape a caricature.

So why can’t Ali Wong just be a bad driver?

Why can’t I just be quiet?

Why do these traits have to be emphasized just because we’re Asian American women?

As I said, this sucks. Thankfully, there’s another solution outside of strategies: taking these stereotypes and turning them to our advantage. For Wong, this means using it in her stand up. She’s become popular with other Asian Americans because she’s honest about what it means to be Asian American (and she’s funny, so there’s that too). So much so that she’s profited off of jokes meant to degrade us. She even admits to paying for her husband’s graduate school tuition.

To add on, it simply means being comfortable with ourselves. No matter what I do, I’m going to be associated with a caricature that I wasn’t even alive for. People are going to make assumptions about me. About you.

In the end, though, these stereotypes don’t define Wong, or me, or you. She may be a bad driver and I may be quiet, but there’s so much more to the both of us. And it’s important to recognize that, even when people make assumptions about any and all of us.

Being an Asian American woman might include being a bad driver or quiet. But it also includes being loud, or fearless, or vulnerable, or bold, or something else entirely ―  something that makes us distinctly us.

BTS: Deconstructing Male Beauty

Written by: Tara Sherchok

As the decade comes to a close, it’s important to reflect on what ideas have died out and what ones have grown. Gender norms are on its way out, but it still plagues many traditional minds today. BTS, a Korean boy band, are actively creating change through their fluidity around the world.

BTS posing after a performance of their song, Boy With Luv.

Nowadays, K-pop (a shorthand for “Korean pop”) is a thriving, music-based industry that is growing in the Western market. But as popularity increases, so do the xenophobic, racist, misogynistic, and overall ignorant misconceptions. Many believe that this industry is a mass-producing factory that produces K-pop idols solely based on aesthetics. There have been numerous comments that male K-pop artists are disgusting to look at because of their feminine features (a fan-favorite nickname calling the genre “gay-pop”). These misjudgments come from a place of inexperience. People are afraid of what they do not understand. Asian boys who wear makeup is something that the West cannot understand because they just aren’t used to it.

Western society has ingrained an idea of what makes a conventionally attractive male. Muscular definition, deep voices, and tan skin are attributes that make a guy “attractive.” Celebrities, influencers, and Instagram models further reinforce this harmful ideal. There was even a segment on Steve Harvey’s talk show where he went on a monologue on how women will never find Asian men attractive.

On the other hand, let’s unpack what it means to look like a female. Women are stereotypically known to wear makeup, have extensive hygiene routines, and have an overall delicate nature. But who says that men can’t wear makeup to enhance their features, or that they can’t take care of themselves with lengthy routines? Why does that make a male any more or less of a man? The gentle aesthetic of K-pop idols is a trend in Korea called Khonminam, which combines the Korean words for “flower” and “beautiful man.” This phenomenon is a hybrid of softness and virility, but not effeminized. It’s a versatile and revolutionary perspective of what it means to look like a man. K-pop has helped many realize that there is an abundance of varying definitions of beauty.

BTS, or Bangtan Sonyeondan, debuted in 2013 with songs criticizing aspects of South Korean society. Since then, their lyrics have centered on social commentary, from topics like generational wealth to mental health. One of the main issues that they tackle are gender norms in fashion.

Zooming into their style, it’s obvious that they do not conform to traditional men’s clothing. During their 2016 photoshoot for The Singles magazine, BTS wore corsets, fishnet stockings, and skirts. Additionally, in their music video for their latest title track, Boy With Luv, they are donned in entirely pink clothing matched with brightly dyed hair.

Kim Namjoon, leader of BTS, pictured from The Singles Magazine wearing fishnet stockings.

BTS are known to wear designer clothes from the women’s section. In an interview for Vanity Fair, when asked what “great style” is, Jeon Jungkook, the youngest member, said, “Wearing anything you like, regardless of gender.” During their Map of the Soul: Persona album photoshoot, Kim Taehyung wore a Gucci sleeveless vest and Jeon Jungkook wore a Gucci mini purse around his neck. Moreover, BTS even helped create a makeup line with VT Cosmetics, including a line of lipsticks that they promoted.

A BTS ad campaign for VT Cosmetics’ lipsticks.

It’s clear that BTS — and K-pop in general — challenge many people’s perception of male beauty. Their blatant defiance of gender barriers is even more impressive considering how traditional Korean society is. BTS will continue to break gender norms with their androgynous style and inspire change.

Reflection of the Model World: Reality Over Stereotypes

Written by: Ellie Williams

Picture this: Photographers in a single file all lined up, lighting up a pathway with their milli-second flash. Videographers quickly adjusting their angles to capture the pulse and flow. The models embodying a sense of movement in their creative power to showcase. Three words: surreal, fast-paced, intense. Bodyguards standing tall, acting as statues guarding a holy site while hundreds of tourists aimlessly try to get a glimpse of what’s going on. All this happening in the most bustling city of them all, New York, with a background scape of the skyline indulging into all the opportunities it has to offer.

This was a photoshoot campaign for the well-known brand, Banana Republic. Men were documented in a Wall Street-like aesthetic with blue suits and wool sweaters, while women were posed in cheetah Merlino sweaters with skirts. A duality campaign was further shown embodying the city life and the outdoors with shots integrating the cityscape and a sense of the world from the standpoint of nature.

Marco Pickett, a 20-year-old model from Jacksonville, Florida was the star of this collaboration. Coming to New York in January of 2017 with the expectation of staying for three days, his life changed forever. After agreeing to test shots and being scouted on Instagram for a photoshoot with Fucking Young! Magazine, his modeling career hit a spark. He’s now signed with Next Models and has upwardly spiraled into a popular model for brands such as Banana Republic, Aime Leon Dore, Urban Outfitters, and Nike. He even made a debut for Burberry at their exclusive in London for Riccardo Tisci’s first collaboration. There, he confidently walked the runway with many other fashion icons, such as Kendall Jenner.

Marco Pickett modeling for Burberry; photo by Click Models.

When talking to Pickett, a sense of reality behind the model world was conveyed. Societal expectations of this particular industry are associated with representations of ruthlessness, glamour and intensity. While Pickett states that it’s definitely fast-paced, intense and could be seen as “unfair,” these assumptions associated with modeling aren’t as truthful as we think.

“For the most part, I feel like I’ve been treated pretty fairly with my experience,” Pickett explains.

Pickett expresses that before entering the world of modeling, he had heard numerous horror stories about the way photographers, agents, and cast members would treat people. However, since 2017, he feels that modeling has morphed into an industry that is more inclusive, digital and modernized — where all different kinds of creative looks are accepted, making it less subjective.

“The model world is like a small circle where everyone knows everyone and it’s growing with its inclusivity and digitalization. It’s no longer just 10 fashion models; so many more types of people have been acknowledged, giving this industry a chance to expand even further and a greater sense of fairness.”

It all depends on the balance between what you consider fair and unfair and what you take personally, Pickett relayed. For instance, when working in Paris, Pickett was deemed too muscular for the clothing that he was supposed to wear. Instead of the fashion directors confronting him, the directors simply left him alone. This lead Pickett to question what he should be doing and if he was still going to be able to contribute. However, he couldn’t let this get the best of him and decided to rise above the criticism.

“There’s no entry level to modeling. You’re not judged on how well you speak or how educated you are, you’re judged on how you look, walk and your body type so depending on who you are, one could look at this being unfair or fair. You just can’t be sensitive.”

In terms of glamour, Pickett gives insight into who the models actually are themselves. He explains that a lot of them start this process at an early age, with no background education and no proper introduction to the reality of having adequate life goals.

“Starting from such a young age and traveling all the time, keeping up with daily tasks could put some people in a difficult place to grow as a person and be stimulated intellectually.”

He explains that many people end up relying on drugs during this industrial process because some points could be draining. Likewise, Pickett fell into this hole himself until his manager guided him in the right direction, describing that there’s still good in this career.

“Overall, I do enjoy modeling. I was brought into it from a place that I wouldn’t have left otherwise and was given endless opportunities to travel around the world and meet new people,” Pickett says. “We have such a short life, it’s such a crazy and awesome experience.”

When reflecting on his own involvement, Pickett feels that it’s been very constructive and that he’s learned a lot about how this industry works and who he is as a person.

“I’ve learned to use modeling to my advantage and take all of my creative desires and my art and embody that to create something positive for the greater good.”

Having an underlying passion for art, he hopes his modeling career can potentially lead him to flourish within his creative desires.

“My main goal is to become a household name and to set a precedent to be known as Marco Pickett. If I did become a household name, I would use that reputation to push my art and become active in the art community of New York.”

Make sure to keep your eyes open as this new up and coming 6’2’ runway model. He will be in Paris for three weeks in January walking in Men’s Fashion Week, creatively and enthusiastically embarking on his next journey!

Cultural Appropriation and Indigenous Designers’ Rebuttal

Written by: Olivia Austria-Kemble

Indigenous Fashion Week is gaining popularity in the fashion industry. Australia, Vancouver, British Columbia, and most recently, Toronto, have hosted this one-week tribute to indigenous designers. Although the U.S. does not host a traditional fashion week for indigenous designers, an indigenous design collection, titled “Native Fashion Now” was held in New York City in 2017.

Indigenous Fashion Week serves as a statement — a rebuttal to the appropriation of indigenous culture that is ever-so often prevalent in fashion designs. That said, let’s take a look at some instances where designers wrongly stole from Native culture.

Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show 2012 and 2017

Victoria’s Secret found itself in deep waters after supermodel Karlie Kloss walked the runway wearing a traditional full headdress. According to Chelsea Vowel, a member of the Métis and an expert in Native studies, a headdress is reserved for male members of native tribes who have acquired the rank to wear one. Unless given permission, it is disrespectful to wear a headdress. This look exploded due to its controversy. It is inarguably cultural appropriation and in the end, the look was barred from the fashion show’s television broadcast.

It seems Victoria’s Secret learned nothing from their escapade in 2012, as they featured yet another headdress during their 2017 show in Shanghai. This time, the lingerie walk included a segment titled, “Nomadic Adventures,” which featured multiple looks inspired by tribal and Native-American styles. The show turned controversial after, model, Nadine Leopold sported a headdress closely representing a native war-bonnet. The problem with this look has similar roots to the issues introduced by Vowel. Traditionally, war-bonnets are a symbol of respect and valor. For someone of a different culture to wear this piece without understanding the meaning, and for a company to include the headdress without caring to research and consult the Native American community, is extremely

Urban Outfitters Navajo print 2012

Since 2001, Urban Outfitters has been slapping the “Navajo” name on their Native-American inspired merchandise. Navajo flasks and Navajo panties are some of the pieces that have been included in this line of merch. Although the products were quite popular, what went unknown was the fact that the use of “Navajo” by anyone, other than the Navajo tribe itself, is actually illegal. This is due to the fact that the tribe trademarked their name in 1943. Upon the release of the company’s collection, a member of the Santee Sioux Nation wrote to Glen Senk, the CEO of Urban Outfitters, to voice the tribe’s disapproval: “These and the dozens of other tacky products you are currently selling referencing Native America make a mockery of our identity and unique cultures.” It seems that Senk has turned his cheek to Brown’s letter and continued the production of the line. However, the company was finally sued by the Navajo Nation in 2012. The Navajo Nation and Urban Outfitters settled for an undisclosed amount and have agreed to collaborate on any further use of “Navajo” pieces. The leader of the Navajo Nation made a statement explaining that when a body wishes to use the Navajo name or create something using the Navajo tribe as inspiration, he expects a consultation with the tribe before making it official. When that courtesy is ignored, the use of “Navajo” becomes disrespectful, and not to mention illegal.

Chanel Boomerang 2017

Chanel released a “designer” boomerang priced at $1,325 as a part of their spring/summer 2017 collection. The outlandish price is one of the many things that the fashion house was criticized for; apparently, the boomerang is worth 10 percent of the average Indigenous Australian’s annual income. And the fact that a French design label, with no Australian roots nor any collaboration, has created this piece is only adding fuel to the perception that this is a piece of mockery to indigenous culture.

In summary, the fashion industry has gained notoriety with uncountable acts of cultural appropriation — a trend that has gone on far too long. Upcoming fashion designers are reclaiming power by focusing on the representation and respect of indigenous cultures in the haute couture world. Indigenous Fashion Week provides a platform for indigenous designers to showcase their work and properly represent culturally inspired designs. Notable indigenous designers such as Bethany Yellowtail, Curtis Oland, and Jamie Okuma have taken to fashion as a form of empowerment. They are using their designs to reclaim their cultures that have been continuously appropriated. These designers note how most indigenous artists are underrepresented and don’t make nearly as much as they deserve for their work. The new wave of indigenous designers have a shared goal of hoping to create a platform for indigenous peoples and be the voice for those who have never been able to reach the ears of the public.

Soyal: A Celebration of New Life

Written by: Ingrid Anderson

In the mountains of northeast Arizona, the Hopi tribe holds a sacred ceremony known as Soyal. This ceremony occurs during the winter solstice, December  21, which is the shortest day of the year. They welcome new life, and celebrate all things that nature has created. Sacred rituals are held in special chambers, called kivas, which are often square-shaped and underground. With the rituals, they honor their guardian spirits, kachinas, which come down from their realm onto Earth and visit their people during the period of Soyal. These spirits are shaped like humans and are considered benevolent beings. They can be either male or female, and represent multiple creatures in nature, and are associated with natural occurrences like healing the ill, rain, and plant growth. When they appear, they are said to leave behind gifts for children in their wake.

Exactly 16 days before the winter solstice, one of the chief kachinas appears in their village. It is a spiritual event that holds a lot of importance for the Hopi tribe. It is said that he walks with a stagger, and it seems as if he’s just awoken from a deep sleep. When he arrives, he makes his way into the central plaza, and performs a dance and song that is regarded as too sacred for the villagers to hear him. The main point of this ritual is to bring the sun back from its winter-long sleep, which is why it happens on the winter solstice.

         Before the kachinas arrive, Hopi tribe members prepare for the ceremony by creating pahos, which are special prayer sticks designed specifically for this ceremony. They’re commonly made out of feathers and pinyon needles, which come from a type of tree that is native to their area.

         When the kachinas arrive, the leaders of the Hopi tribe perform special rituals where they use a decorated shield to enact the sun being attacked by malevolent forces, and how it still perseveres. At the end of the entire celebration, they perform a public dance for the kachina. The protective spirits will remain with the tribe until their season is over halfway through the year, and from there return to their home in the mountains.